Free Form Stitching: tutorial

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20 November 2016

Warping a Rigid Heddle Loom - Tutorial

How To Warp A Rigid Heddle Weaving Loom

Looking from the back of the loom, this is the 'take-up bar' that your warp threads are tied to.

The bar is attached to the rear roller with string. This should be permanently attached, and ready to warp for your next project.

The rear ratchet should be in the LOCKED position.

The warp threads are attached to the rear 'take-up bar'.

(Note - I usually attach my rear warps first, but I know other weavers who like to to attach their front warps first. I don't think it is set in concrete which way it should be done. It's your personal preference).

Lay your lengths of warp threads on the loom. Start in the middle of the rear 'take-up bar'.

I usually hold about 8 to 10 threads in hand, pass them from the front of the loom over the heddle and over the rear 'take-up bar', pass the ends under the bar, split the threads evenly before bringing back on either side, and over the top, of the whole bunch of warp threads, and tie in a double knot. Don't tie too tightly just yet, in case you need to adjust the tension or position of any once you have tied all your warp threads to the 'take-up bar'.

Carry on tying your warp threads to the back bar.

Hot tip: Number a couple of sheets of recycled printer paper. Orientate the paper to landscape position, and write your Large numbers on the bottom of the paper.

Use this paper (starting with number 1), to slide in between the warp and the rear roller, as you turn the ratchet to take-up the excess warp thread.

As your work (weaving cloth) progresses you can easily keep track of how much warp you have left on your back roller by checking what number you are on with the paper.

My project in this photo is about 15 inches wide, so I had to use two sheets of paper slightly overlapping. One piece was the numbered one and the other sheet was blank.

Carefully wind the back ratchet so that the 'take-up bar' is pulled towards the back roller, and start adding your paper as you roll. Kepp rolling the warp and paper until you only have enough yarn left to reach to the front roller.

Note: Remember to put the locking lever to the LOCKED position on the back roller ratchet.

Next you have to thread the warp through the heddle.

Most looms come complete with a special heddle hook that fits easily between the slots and into the holes to make threading each individual warp a lot easier for you.

The heddle has holes and slots. Warp thread is passed through each slot and hole in order.

As I am using a variegated thread for my warp, I do not have to worry about placement of different colours for this project. But if you are planning a particular pattern, then the warp threads might have to be threaded in a certain order for the pattern to show. Refer to your pattern instructions if you are using a pattern.

If this is your first weaving on a heddle, I would choose a solid colour warp thread, or a variegated like mine.

Hot Tip: Do not use a stretchy warp thread, especially if this is your first weaving project. Wool yarn is not suitable for warping because it stretches too much and you cannot keep good tension while weaving. There are special warp threads that can be purchased especially for this job, or you can use cotton, strong string, or similar.

I am using carpet weaving cotton which is strong and non-stretchy, but it is a bit 'hairy' as the following photo shows.

Here are all my warp threads hanging down loose after being threaded through the heddle.

This is when you make sure that you have enough length at the front of the heddle to tie the warp to the front 'take-up bar'.

If you need some more thread, just release the latch that is locking the back ratchet, and slowly pull enough warp for tying up.

Now tie your warp threads to the front 'take-up bar' in the same way that you tied the back bar.

Tighten the front ratchet to a suitable tension, and make sure that the locking lever is in the LOCKED position.

Voila!!! A warped Rigid Heddle Loom ready for weaving.

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial and can now warp your loom with ease.

Follow this blog to get first hand updates for when I upload more tutorials.

Happy Weaving

Circle Weaving (How-To) Tutorial

A Circle Weaving (How-To) Tutorial

with an upcycled loom

I do not have a circle loom, so I made my own from a plastic pudding bowl.

I cut the top of the bowl off about 15mm from the top lip and then cut 'V' notches around it.

I ended up with 49 notches. An uneven number of 'spokes' is preferable if you want to weave round-and-round in a continuous spiral technique.

To hold the warp threads, these notches were then carefully bent outwards to be able hold the warp in place.

Tie your warp to the ring with a slip knot, and start winding it back and forth across to the opposite side of the circle. Always looping around the next notch in the same direction you are heading.

When you get all the way around, tie the other end of the warp thread to the ring with another slip knot.

Using a blunt ended tapestry needle (or similar), tie your thread (or yarn), with a knot on the back of the piece, around the very centre of the 'spokes'. This knot 'holds' all the 'spokes' together and also attaches the weaving thread.

I chose to use the same thread as the warping thread for the middle of my circle weaving. You can use whatever thread or yarn you like on your piece.

Start weaving in an under-over motion, or whatever weaving method you prefer.

When changing colour, you secure the thread by sewing it through some weaving stitches on the back before bringing the needle and thread to the front for weaving.

After the middle 10mm or so of weaving all the way around, I changed my thread for the purple metallic and wove a wedge shape off to one side.

I had no particular plan for the design. I was just looking for something contemporary and arty decorative.

A few more wedge shapes later, and I'm back to weaving all the way around with dark purple.

The dark purple thread holds the completed design together very well as the wedge edges are not joined to the next wedge. There is an open gap between them.

When you are happy with your design you can untie the warp slip knots and slide the warp wraps off of the loom notches. You will then need to secure the two warp loose ends by threading through the back of the weaving and hide all ends.

Happy Weaving

02 November 2013

Free Pattern - Crochet Ra Ra Skirt - 1 to 3 years old

Free Pattern - From Cyra Lewis

Ra Ra Skirt - age 1yr to 3yrs - Crochet and Knitting.

This Pull-On skirt measures:
Length .... 10.5" (27cm)
Waist .... 14" - 23" (36cm - 58cm)
the larger width is measured with the waistband stretched but still comfortable.

Swatch size: 4 inches = 15 tr (blo) x 9 rows

I work loosely. If you have a tight tension then your garment will end up slightly smaller.

Variations to ths size can be made by altering the thickness of the yarn, and by changing the hook size.

The purple 'Ra Ra' bottom piece is an open lacy pattern.

The stretchy waistband is knitted ribbing with crocheted belt loops and a ruffle belt that has the unique ability to 'grow' with the child.

Materials

Yarn 'A' : 1 ball Windsor Acrylic Double Knit Opal in Purple

Yarn 'B' : 1 ball Windsor Acrylic Double Knit Variegated to match

Crochet hooks - 3.5mm & 4mm

Circular Knitting Needles - 4mm

Abbreviations

(English Crochet Terminology)

sts..... stitches

sl st..... slip stitch

sp..... space

ch.....chain stitch

dc.....double crochet

tr.....treble

dtr.....double treble

pct.....picot

dec.....decrease

beg.....beginning

prev.....previous

blo.....back loop only

tr2tog....treble 2 together

Instructions

Starting with the purple yarn and the 4mm hook we will make the 'Ra Ra' part of the skirt first.

Foundation Row :

Ch.90. Sl st to the first ch (making sure not to twist the foundation chains) to make a circle. You will now be working in the Round. The outside is the right side. Keep the right side facing you. Do not turn.

R1. -

Ch.3, 4 tr in same ch., ch.2, (skip next 2 ch.), dc in next ch., *ch.2, (skip next 2 ch.), 5 tr in next ch., ch.2, (skip next 2 ch.) dc in next ch., ** Repeat from * to **14 times. Ch.2, sl st to top of beg ch.3 stitch.

R2. -

Ch.3, 1 tr in each of next 2 sts., ch.2, 1 tr in same place as prev tr, 1 tr in each of next 2 sts., * ch.3, (now, work into the next shell), 1 tr in each of the next 3 tr, ch.2, 1 tr in same st., 1 tr in each of next 2 sts. ** Repeat the shell pattern from * to **to the end of the round, sl.st to the top of the beg st of that round.

R3. -

Sl st across the top of next 2 sts., (brings you to the tr just before the ch.2 sp.), ch.4, 3 dtr in the ch.2 sp., ch.2, 3 dtr in the same sp., 1 dtr in the next st., 1 dc in the ch.3 sp., * (skip 2 tr), 1 dtr in next st., 3 dtr in the ch.2 sp., ch.2, 3 dtr in the same sp., 1 dtr in the next st., 1 dc in the ch.3 sp., ** Repeat pattern from * to ** to end of round, sl st to 4th ch of starting st.

R4. -

Sl st across next 2 sts., ch.4, 1 dtr in next st., 3 dtr in the ch.2 sp., ch.2, 3 dtr in same sp., 1 dtr in each of the next 2 sts., * 1 dtr in 3rd dtr of the next shell, 1 dtr in the next st., 3 dtr in the ch.2 sp., ch.2, 3 dtr in the same sp., 1 dtr in each of the next 2 sts., ** Repeat the pattern from * to ** to the end of the round, sl st to the 4th ch of starting st.

R5. -

Sl st across next 2 sts., ch.4, 1 dtr in each of next 2 sts., 3 dtr in the ch.2 sp., ch.2, 3 dtr in the same sp., 1 dtr in each of next 3 sts., * (skip 4 dtr) 1 dtr in each of next 3 dtr., 3 dtr in the ch.2 sp., ch.2, 3 dtr in same sp., 1 dtr in each of next 3 sts., ** Repeat pattern from * to ** to the end of the round, sl st to 4th ch of starting st.

R6. -

Ch.6, * 2 dtr in next ch.2 sp., ch.5, 2 dtr in same sp., ch.2, 1 dtr in the diamond shaped sp between 2 shells of the prev round, ch.2, ** Repeat pattern from * to ** to end of the round, ending with 1 tr in 4th ch of beg ch.6 st.

R7. -

Sl st back into last dtr made, dc in same st., * ch.5, dc in the next dtr., 1 pct [a picot consists of ch.3 and a sl st into 3rd ch from hook], 1 dc in next st., <1 dc., 1 pct., 2 dc., 1 pct., 2 dc., 1 pct., 1 dc.,> (< to > are made in the same ch.5 sp.,), 1 dc in next st., 1 pct., 1 dc in next st., ** Repeat pattern from * to ** to the end of round.

Fasten off yarn.

Re-attach Yarn 'A' on any chain of the foundation row. You will now be working in the opposite direction on that foundation row (i.e. from the top of the purple Ra-Ra frill, upwards to the waist).

R8. -

Ch.1, work one dc in every st to end, join with a sl st., change to Yarn 'B'.

R9. -

Using Yarn 'B', ch.1, dc in every st around, join with a sl st.

R10. -