Showing posts with label Free Tutorial. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Free Tutorial. Show all posts

20 November 2016

Warping a Rigid Heddle Loom - Tutorial



How To Warp A Rigid Heddle Weaving Loom

Looking from the back of the loom, this is the 'take-up bar' that your warp threads are tied to. 
The bar is attached to the rear roller with string. This should be permanently attached, and ready to warp for your next project.


The rear ratchet should be in the LOCKED position.


The warp threads are attached to the rear 'take-up bar'. 
(Note - I usually attach my rear warps first, but I know other weavers who like to to attach their front warps first. I don't think it is set in concrete which way it should be done. It's your personal preference).
Lay your lengths of warp threads on the loom. Start in the middle of the rear 'take-up bar'.
I usually hold about 8 to 10 threads in hand, pass them from the front of the loom over the heddle and over the rear 'take-up bar', pass the ends under the bar, split the threads evenly before bringing back on either side, and over the top, of the whole bunch of warp threads, and tie in a double knot. Don't tie too tightly just yet, in case you need to adjust the tension or position of any once you have tied all your warp threads to the 'take-up bar'.


Carry on tying your warp threads to the back bar.



 Hot tip:  Number a couple of sheets of recycled printer paper. Orientate the paper to landscape position, and write your Large numbers on the bottom of the paper.
Use this paper (starting with number 1), to slide in between the warp and the rear roller, as you turn the ratchet to take-up the excess warp thread. 
As your work (weaving cloth) progresses you can easily keep track of how much warp you have left on your back roller by checking what number you are on with the paper.


My project in this photo is about 15 inches wide, so I had to use two sheets of paper slightly overlapping. One piece was the numbered one and the other sheet was blank.


Carefully wind the back ratchet so that the 'take-up bar' is pulled towards the back roller, and start adding your paper as you roll. Kepp rolling the warp and paper until you only have enough yarn left to reach to the front roller.

Note: Remember to put the locking lever to the LOCKED position on the back roller ratchet.

Next you have to thread the warp through the heddle.
Most looms come complete with a special heddle hook that fits easily between the slots and into the holes to make threading each individual warp a lot easier for you.


The heddle has holes and slots. Warp thread is passed through each slot and hole in order.
As I am using a variegated thread for my warp, I do not have to worry about placement of different colours for this project. But if you are planning a particular pattern, then the warp threads might have to be threaded in a certain order for the pattern to show. Refer to your pattern instructions if you are using a pattern.
If this is your first weaving on a heddle, I would choose a solid colour warp thread, or a variegated like mine.
Hot Tip: Do not use a stretchy warp thread, especially if this is your first weaving project. Wool yarn is not suitable for warping because it stretches too much and you cannot keep good tension while weaving. There are special warp threads that can be purchased especially for this job, or you can use cotton, strong string, or similar.
I am using carpet weaving cotton which is strong and non-stretchy, but it is a bit 'hairy' as the following photo shows.


Here are all my warp threads hanging down loose after being threaded through the heddle.
This is when you make sure that you have enough length at the front of the heddle to tie the warp to the front 'take-up bar'.
If you need some more thread, just release the latch that is locking the back ratchet, and slowly pull enough warp for tying up.


Now tie your warp threads to the front 'take-up bar' in the same way that you tied the back bar.
Tighten the front ratchet to a suitable tension, and make sure that the locking lever is in the LOCKED position.


Voila!!! A warped Rigid Heddle Loom ready for weaving.

I hope you enjoyed this tutorial and can now warp your loom with ease.
Follow this blog to get first hand updates for when I upload more tutorials.

Happy Weaving














14 September 2014

FREE Crochet Heart Tutorial by Cyra

  -  FREE TUTORIAL - 
 by Cyra Lewis 

 A 3-D Crocheted Heart Tutorial 

Step-by-step photos included.


I made mine using #20 crochet thread with a size 1.00 crochet hook.
The heart was just the right size to use on a homemade 
birthday card for someone special (photo above).

     This heart could also be made as a cushion, in wool or yarn of your choice.     
The finished size would be dependent on the thickness of yarn used and the size of your crochet hook.


Crochet Heart Tutorial
UK crochet terminology is used here. 
Please see the end of this blog for a US terminology alternative.

Starting from the top of the heart.

Ch4, sl.st. to 1st ch to form a ring.

Ch1, 8dc  into ring, join with a sl.st. to beg. ch. (8sts)

Ch1, 2dc in every st around, join with a sl.st. to beg. ch.  (16sts)

Ch1, 1dc in same st., 1dc in each of next 2 sts., 2dc in the next st., *1dc in each of the next 3 sts., 2dc in the next st.,**. Repeat from * to ** two more times to the end of the round, join with a sl.st. to beg. ch.  (20 sts)



Ch1, working 1dc in every st. make 80dc working in the round, 
i.e. do not join rounds with sl.st. When you reach the beg. of the round just dc into the next dc st. and work in a spiral for 80 sts, ((or four rounds))



When you get to this point cut the thread leaving a tail of about 6 inches.

Now you have to make another 'upside-down cup' exactly the same, but do not cut the thread on the second one when you get to this point.


The following two photos show you how to join these two 'cups' together.
Using the tail thread on the first cup, oversew three stitches only, making sure that you join the second cup immediately after the last dc that you made (2nd photo)



Put your hook back in the loop from the last st. made, and st. 1dc in every st. going around the outside of both cups, but do not dc in any of the sewn sts.

After stitching one round of dc. in every st. around the whole piece, you will start dec. (st.2dc.tog.) at each outer edge.


Continue stitching dc. rounds, still working in a spiral, decreasing (st.2dc.tog.) at each side edge of the heart.

After about 5 or 6 rounds the hole will be getting significantly smaller (heading towards the point of the heart).

Now is the time to start stuffing the heart with the filling of your choice. This small heart does not take much stuffing at all, but a cushion sized heart will obviously take quite a bit more stuffing.


Continue the dc. stitching in every st. around and dec. at the edges.

(Below the joining of the two cups, it takes about 14/15 rounds to get to the point)

As you get closer to the point of the heart you may need to insert a little more stuffing to fill the point.

When you cannot dec. any more, sl.st the last two sts. tog. to make the point of the heart, cut the thread, pull through, and finish by weaving the tail inside the stuffed heart.


I Attached my heart to the card by making two holes in the card and sewing the heart in place through these two holes, tying the tails together and then losing the tails by weaving the thread back into the heart.



Abbreviations:

Ch. ------ chain 
dc   ------ double crochet
st.   ------ stitch
sts. ------ stitches
sl.st. ----- slip stitch
beg. ----- beginning
dec. ----- decrease
st.2dc.tog. ----- stitch 2 double crochets together


UK                      US

ch ....................... ch
dc ....................... sc (single crochet)



   <><><><><><><><><><><><><><><><>   


I can see these hearts getting used in many ways.
I hope you have fun with yours.

Please leave a comment here if you use my tutorial and feel free to share a link to your project.






02 November 2013

Free Pattern - Crochet Ra Ra Skirt - 1 to 3 years old

Free Pattern - From Cyra Lewis

Ra Ra Skirt - age 1yr to 3yrs  - Crochet and Knitting.



This Pull-On skirt measures:
Length .... 10.5" (27cm)
Waist .... 14" - 23" (36cm - 58cm) 
the larger width is measured with the waistband stretched but still comfortable.

Swatch size: 4 inches = 15 tr (blo) x 9 rows

I work loosely. If you have a tight tension then your garment will end up slightly smaller. 

Variations to ths size can be made by altering the thickness of the yarn, and by changing the hook size.

The purple 'Ra Ra' bottom piece is an open lacy pattern.
The stretchy waistband is knitted ribbing with crocheted belt loops and a ruffle belt that has the unique ability to 'grow' with the child.

Materials

Yarn 'A' :          1 ball Windsor Acrylic Double Knit Opal in Purple
Yarn 'B' : 1 ball Windsor Acrylic Double Knit Variegated to match

Crochet hooks - 3.5mm & 4mm
Circular Knitting Needles - 4mm

Abbreviations  
(English Crochet Terminology)

sts..... stitches
sl st..... slip stitch
sp..... space
ch.....chain stitch
dc.....double crochet
tr.....treble
dtr.....double treble
pct.....picot
dec.....decrease
beg.....beginning
prev.....previous
blo.....back loop only
tr2tog....treble 2 together 


Instructions

Starting with the purple yarn and the 4mm hook we will make the 'Ra Ra' part of the skirt first.

Foundation Row : 
Ch.90. Sl st to the first ch (making sure not to twist the foundation chains) to make a circle. You will now be working in the Round. The outside is the right side. Keep the right side facing you. Do not turn.

R1.
Ch.3, 4 tr in same ch., ch.2, (skip next 2 ch.), dc in next ch., *ch.2, (skip next 2 ch.), 5 tr in next ch., ch.2, (skip next 2 ch.) dc in next ch., **    Repeat from * to **14 times. Ch.2, sl st to top of beg ch.3 stitch.


R2.
Ch.3, 1 tr in each of next 2 sts., ch.2, 1 tr in same place as prev tr, 1 tr in each of next 2 sts., * ch.3, (now, work into the next shell), 1 tr in each of the next 3 tr, ch.2, 1 tr in same st., 1 tr in each of next 2 sts. **   Repeat the shell pattern from * to **to the end of the round, sl.st to the top of the beg st of that round.


R3.
Sl st across the top of next 2 sts., (brings you to the tr just before the ch.2 sp.), ch.4, 3 dtr in the ch.2 sp., ch.2, 3 dtr in the same sp., 1 dtr in the next st., 1 dc in the ch.3 sp., * (skip 2 tr), 1 dtr in next st., 3 dtr in the ch.2 sp., ch.2, 3 dtr in the same sp., 1 dtr in the next st., 1 dc in the ch.3 sp., **  Repeat pattern from * to ** to end of round, sl st to 4th ch of starting st.


R4.
Sl st across next 2 sts., ch.4, 1 dtr in next st., 3 dtr in the ch.2 sp., ch.2, 3 dtr in same sp., 1 dtr in each of the next 2 sts., * 1 dtr in 3rd dtr of the next shell, 1 dtr in the next st., 3 dtr in the ch.2 sp., ch.2, 3 dtr in the same sp., 1 dtr in each of the next 2 sts., **   Repeat the pattern from * to ** to the end of the round, sl st to the 4th ch of starting st.


R5.
Sl st across next 2 sts., ch.4, 1 dtr in each of next 2 sts., 3 dtr in the ch.2 sp., ch.2, 3 dtr in the same sp., 1 dtr in each of next 3 sts., * (skip 4 dtr) 1 dtr in each of next 3 dtr.,  3 dtr in the ch.2 sp., ch.2, 3 dtr in same sp., 1 dtr in each of next 3 sts., **   Repeat pattern from * to ** to the end of the round, sl st to 4th ch of starting st.



R6.
Ch.6, * 2 dtr in next ch.2 sp., ch.5, 2 dtr in same sp., ch.2, 1 dtr in the diamond shaped sp between 2 shells of the prev round, ch.2, **   Repeat pattern from * to ** to end of the round, ending with 1 tr in 4th ch of beg ch.6 st.

R7.
Sl st back into last dtr made, dc in same st., * ch.5, dc in the next dtr., 1 pct [a picot consists of ch.3 and a sl st into 3rd ch from hook], 1 dc in next st., <1 dc., 1 pct., 2 dc., 1 pct., 2 dc., 1 pct., 1 dc.,>  (< to > are made in the same ch.5 sp.,), 1 dc in next st., 1 pct., 1 dc in next st., **   Repeat pattern from * to ** to the end of round.


Fasten off yarn.

Re-attach Yarn 'A' on any chain of the foundation row. You will now be working in the opposite direction on that foundation row (i.e. from the top of the purple Ra-Ra frill, upwards to the waist).

R8.
Ch.1, work one dc in every st to end, join with a sl st., change to Yarn 'B'.

R9.
Using Yarn 'B', ch.1, dc in every st around, join with a sl st.

R10.
(Work 'blo' for this entire round). 
Ch.3, 1 tr in into every st to end, join with a sl st to top of beg ch.3.

R11.
(Work 'blo' for this entire round). 
Ch.3, 1 tr in each of the next 13 sts., tr2tog., * 1 tr in each of the next 14 sts., tr2tog., **   Repeat from * to ** to end of round, join with sl st to beg.


R12.
(Work 'blo' for this entire round). 
Ch.3, * 1 tr in each of next 15 sts., tr2tog., **   Repeat from * to ** to end of round, join with a sl st to beg.

R13.
(Work 'blo' for this entire round). 
Ch.3, * 1 tr in each of next 8 sts., tr2tog., **   Repeat from * to ** to end of round, join with a sl st to beg.

R14.
(Work 'blo' for this entire round). 
Ch.3, * 1 tr in each of next 7 sts., tr2tog., **
Repeat from * to ** to end of round, join with a sl st to beg.

R15.
(Work 'blo' for this entire round). 
Ch.3, * 1 tr in each of next 12 sts., tr2tog., **
Repeat from * to ** to end of round, join with a sl st to beg. Fasten off yarn.

   [[[ Alternative instructions for R10 to R15  ]]]    
If you find it difficult (or just don't want to, haha) to follow the stitch counts in the above instructions, here is what is happening on those Rounds.

R10 - No decreasing. One tr made in every stitch around.

R11 - A total of five (5) decreases (tr2tog) are made evenly around. 1 tr in all other stitches around.

R12A total of five (5) decreases (tr2tog) are made evenly around. 1 tr in all other stitches around.

R13 A total of eight (8) decreases (tr2tog) are made evenly around. 1 tr in all other stitches around.

R14A total of eight (8) decreases (tr2tog) are made evenly around. 1 tr in all other stitches around.

R15A total of five (5) decreases (tr2tog) are made evenly around. 1 tr in all other stitches around.







Knitted Ribbed Waistband

Using 4mm circular knitting needles and Yarn 'B', cast on 120 stitches.

R1. - * k2, p2 **   Repeat this rib pattern to end. Turn.

R2. to R16. - Repeat Row 1. Cast off and fasten yarn.




Belt Loop: (make 5)

Using 3.5mm hook, and Yarn 'B'. Leave long tails at least 6" at beg and end for sewing to waistband later.

Foundation row - Ch.4. Turn.

R1. - 3 dc across row, turn.

R2. - Ch.1, 3 dc across row, turn.

Repeat Row 2 until you have completed 10 rows (or the width of your waistband). Fasten off.




Belt:

Using Yarn 'A', and 3.5 hook.

Foundation row - Ch.107, turn.

R1. - 1 dc in each ch to end, turn.

R2. - Ch.4, *(skip 1 st.) 1 tr in next st., ch.1., **   Repeat to end, turn.

R3. - Ch.1,  1 dc in every tr & 'ch.1' sp of prev row.   Fasten off.





Belt Ties:

Using Yarn 'A', and 3.5 hook.

Make a foundation chain of about 180 ch.. Fasten off.



Making Up the Garment:

Sl st (or sew if you prefer) the waistband to the top of the skirt.

Pin, and then sew the 5 Belt Loops in place (see following photos for placement of Loops)

Three Belt Loops Across the Back of the Skirt


Two Belt Loops on the Front of the Skirt



Thread the Belt Tie through the spaces between the tr on the belt.



The Belt Tie should be longer than the Belt to allow for tying in a bow.


Pass the Belt through the Belt Loops on the skirt


Push the Belt up on the Belt Ties to make a 'ruffle'.
This adjusts the size to fit the child.




   If you would like to share this pattern on your blog   
   PLEASE LINK back to this page.   
DO NOT "copy & paste" the instructions.

   This is a FREE PATTERN    
   and may be printed out to create garment(s) for your own use, but the pattern may not    
   be sold in printed, digital, or any other form.    


You should be reading this pattern on my http://free-form-stitching.blogspot.com site.



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